This is now our second day at Santa Catalina.  The internet was rough the first little while, it’s a little better here, so I’ll fill you in now that I can.  Pictures will have to wait, we have some, but blame the connection.  Uploading them is probably best done early in the AM when I’m usually drinking coffee.

The road here, that comes off the still under construction Panamerican Highway, was a little hard to find, and we drove right past it.  With all the confusion, it’s understandable. 

We didn’t go too far astray, just a few clicks up from the turn before we stopped and asked where the heck we were.  Once we found it, the first leg of the run towards Sona was windy and rough, but after 15 km or so, the road was awesome.  Twisty-turny, no potholes, great for bikes.

I was wishing I had mine until I thought about the strength of the sun down here, but screw it, it’s just too good a ride to forget.  The locals have these half-sleeves they wear for sun protection.

Sona was a nice enough little town, hot and busy, purely Panamanian, and roughly halfway to the end point.  The main drag through town cuts diagonally through it, and even a simple venture off onto the side roads has you right turned around bass-akward, wondering where you came from.  We stopped for some lunch, strolled around just a little, and went on our way.  Carrying on through the town, you go until you cross a bridge, then shortly after that is the left turn you’re looking for.

From there, it’s another 50 km of the same type of winding, mountainous road, leading all the way out to this tiny little tourist mecca on the coast.

This is tourist central “gringo town”.  It’s not fresh, it’s not vibrant, it is a surfers town that is close to Isla Coiba.  This means there are a ton of hostels with kitchen, several dive shops, and lots of places willing to take you on a tour to the island.  There are also a lot of “for sale” signs.

This is now December 19th, and granted, not a lot of people begin moving until after Christmas, but this place is quiet.  This beach has excellent breaks for all types of surfers.  As one guy out on the waves put it after I apologized for being in his way body-surfing, “no worries, this place is such a log you can catch it anywhere”, but the rule here is stay out of each others way.  Who wants to bail on a great wave because there is some clueless idiot in the way?  Well, I wasn’t clueless, I just hadn’t made it to my spot yet.  In any case, the beach is long and shallow, with several breaks for novice, intermediate, and for those that like to kick ass, they can jump in a boat and get dropped off at the break by the rocks or there is a trail (I have yet to find) that leads out the the point.  That’s where the real action is.

There wasn’t a lot of shade out where we were, just one spot for the hammock, so we took it.  I hung it as best I could, we dropped our things, said goodbye to them (you don’t bring something to the beach you aren’t willing to lose) and went for a swim.
It’s been ten days since we were covered in sea salt, and it was a nice change.

Honestly, the pictures don’t do it justice.  This is the best one we have so far, and it’s not just because I’m walking out of the surf.  LOL.  Have a look how far back the break goes.  There are folks all over catching it, and this doesn’t even take into account the point, which I can’t be sure I’ve even seen yet.  Newbie….

Our first night here was spent at a place called Hostal Ocean, a place still under construction, and $40/night.  The owners are nice enough, really going out of their way to make you feel welcome, but the truth of the matter is the place just isn’t ready for guests yet.  I won’t elaborate and waste your time.

We’re now at Santa Catalina Inn (there are two, one right at the beach head, and one at “the top”) for $50/night, it is finished, nice, and also for sale.  Seems a lot of people are looking to liquidate, while just down the street, the locals are still building additions.  Smart money vs. dumb money comments come to mind.

There are pricey restaurants to go with the locale, but so far the food at all of them has been excellent, and always with the Panamanian service, which is non-existent unless asked.  It’s annoying until you understand it.

Panamanians don’t like to be bothered, so they don’t like to bother, which is nice if you just want to sit there forever and enjoy the sunset and not be bothered, but if you’re thirsty, don’t bother expecting someone to be looking.  You have to ‘sssss’ someone over, which is no bother because that’s how they do it here.

The Viejo Panaderia is a notable exception to this.  Pizza, and pretty good too, was on the table in under ten minutes, and made right behind you as you order.  Nice.  It seems to be “the place”.

Tomorrow morning we leave on our bout tour for Isla Coiba.  It’s an all day affair, and should even out any light spots in our tans.  Three stops, two for snorkeling, and the last for relaxing on the island.  It’s a national park, white sand, extremely clear waters, and expensive for a reason.   If it wasn’t for our dollar taking an ass kicking on the exchange rate, it would be high, but reasonable.  Regardless, it’ll be remembered.

Lobster boy will post more after the trip.